I’ve Always wanted a Moving Fillister Plane (Filletster)
I Think what fascinates me with an antique, like this moving fillister plane, is that there is always a story behind it. When you don’t know what that story is but you see the wear and tear, you know there was a journey. You start to add up the clues of how it got to the state its in. You start to wonder what it’s seen, what it’s heard, what it’s done.
I’ll have video over on my youtube channel of this once it’s up or just check it out here!
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Yes I know I call it a ‘fillister’ plane and some call it a filletster plane. In reality, I would call it a ‘rebbate plane’ but any which way it’s a sash plane. If you google fillister you get mostly photos of the wooden versions. If you google filletster you get the stanley No.78.
Still, I went with the popular woodworking version from this Chris Swartz article: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/essential-joinery-plane-the-moving-fillister
The hand plane I have chosen.
I had a choice of a rather clean, almost mint, moving fillister plane and this one. I didn’t make the choice because of the 100 dollar price difference. I made the choice because of the character this one had. I saw that it was damaged but I also recognized that it was repaired more than a couple times. It was never the best fillister plane but whoever owned it sure did all they could to keep it usable. My goal is not just to have a usable plane but also help it continue its story. I have no intention of losing the patina that tells that story.
It’s time to taking her apart
The fence has a crack in the middle which the previous owner screwed tight from the side.
I’m 100% sure that the depth stop is also a fix for what was probably a brass one. Time has left it pitted but I’m sure it’ll function just fine.
The adjustment screw and carriage block were both removed with very little effort.
The boxing is broken in a few spots where it was glued back in place. There is a tiny screw in the boxing just at the side of the mouth. The wood is so stripped it isn’t holding anything anymore.
With a broken wedge, the nicker proved the hardest part to remove. The wedge was loose and would wiggle but there was nothing left to hold onto. Eventually accepting that I would have to replace this wedge I used pliers to remove it.
The nicker blade was bent side-to-side wedging itself in the mortise. I could tap it a little bit forward but found using a reversed nail head on the blade worked wonderful. This would really need to be corrected.
Cleaning the parts
The metal was cleaned with a vinegar /water mixture for abut 8 hours. I would lightly scrub the parts with a brass brush to loosen dirt and allow the solution to reach more of the metal. Wash your parts with water after this to stop the reaction and then quickly cover them with 3-in-1 oil to prevent any oxidation.
The wood was cleaned a few times with mineral turps (mineral spirits in the USA). I didn’t take the brass guides in the fence out as it proved to be too hard so I brass brushed them in place. I would like to note the patina left by this process versus what you will see with the vinegar/water solution on the other parts. If you are looking for a show piece or wanted to sell an old tool like this – this is the way to move the price up!
I re-finished it with about 4 coats of boiled linseed oil. Left on for 15 minutes each and then wiped off. ‘linseed’ oil was used a lot by the old masters of oil painting as part of their ‘mediums’ used to glaze paint on their masterpieces. It causes light to refract between the layers before finally bouncing back to your eye. It’s a very simple step that adds a lot of richness to anything it’s added to. ‘Boiled’ linseed oil dries much faster which makes everyone like it more (artists would never use it). You just really do need to be wary of the rags you use to apply it. It can self-combust so application rags should be soaked in water overnight afterward.
Fixing it up
I used the old wedge as a template and continued the lines out on a scrap piece of hardwood. I shaped the wedge so it had the cove it in to help remove it as well as make it look more authentic. I’m not sure of the species of this wood, I made it from a hardwood teaspoon display I got from a thrift store. An excellent source of wood like this.
I used the vinegar/steel wool trick to darken it. This got the tone much closer to the body of the plane but it was still too clean so from this point on if you have dirty fingers from cleaning or sharpening metal you wipe them off on the piece before cleaning your hands. That’s how the rest of the plane got to be like that!
I used a small nail and slowly filled the hole walls in with epoxy so the threads would again have something to bite on to. I didn’t flood the hole with epoxy. I just slowly added it to the walls of the hole. I could have just removed this screw and let the plane be without but it added character and showed the extent the previous owner went to to keep the plane working. This ended up working great!
I also forced some epoxy into the crack on the fence though this probably wasn’t needed as the screw was doing it’s job well. My clamping forced the fence crooked so I would need to plane it’s surfaces a couple more times.
Fixing the metal parts
I rounding out the corners of the rear of the depth stop since it was now digging into the side face. Lightly tapping the blades will partially correct the bending that has happened from the years of resetting them. I’m pretty sure some of these kinks were the way the previous owner straightened the edge to the bottom. I get it, sharpening a skew is not easy but there is a point where you need to restore it. Of course this would come back to bite me too!
I had not run across any nickers being sharpened like this one had. I still can’t see how it got to have this step in it. Unless they were sharpening it in place after the wedge broke.
I began to reshape it into the diamond shape I wanted. This was done with metal files, small diamond files and eventually my sharpening stones. I’m not sure this is a great idea but I’m doing it anyways.
Even though the blade angle was really steep and the skew was off. I went ahead and sharpened it as it was. I should have reshaped the edge correctly, bevel and skew, as I would eventually have come back to correct this issue.
It was a huge bite but still, it was much closer to square than I thought it would be. This thing is amazing.
The final product
Notice how well the new wedge fits in after all the dirty hands!
After a day I came back and properly reshaped the skewed iron and here she is:
Thanks
Again, please check the video over on my youtube channel here, subscribe like and comment!
Clean Phil